MILKING AND MAKING BUTTER IN THE
1800'S
Information from
A Country Kitchen,
1850
"A Long Ago Book"
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ON THE CARE OF MILK,
AND MAKING BUTTER
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NO BRANCH OF HOUSEHOLD
ECONOMY BRINGS BETTER REWARD THAN THE MAKING OF
BUTTER; AND TO ONE WHO TAKES AN INTEREST IN
DOMESTIC EMPLOYMENTS, IT SOON BECOMES A MOST
PLEASANT OCCUPATION.
THE FOLLOWING
INSTRUCTIONS ARE DERIVED FROM THE PERSONAL
EXPERIENCE OF ONE OF THE MOST SKILLFUL DAIRY-WOMEN
IN NEW ENGLAND; AND BY EXACTLY OBSERVING THEM, THE
YOUTHFUL HOUSEKEEPER, HITHERTO UNPRACTICED IN SUCH
MYSTERIES, WILL HAVE THE PLEASURE OF FURNISHING
HER TABLE WITH THE FINEST BUTTER, THE WORK OF HER
OWN HANDS.
THE FIRST REQUISITE IS TO HAVE A
GOOD COW. ONE THAT HAS HIGH HIPS, SHORT FORE-LEGS
AND A LARGE UDDER IS TO BE PREFERRED. THE
CREAM-COLORED AND THE MOUSE-COLORED COWS GENERALLY
GIVE A LARGE QUANTITY AND OF RICH QUALITY. HER
FEEDING SHOULD BE FAITHFULY ATTENDED TO. SHE
SHOULD HAVE A GOOD PASTURE, NOT FAR DISTANT, OR IF
THIS IS IMPRACTICABLE, CARE MUST BE TAKEN THAT SHE
IS NOT TO RUN -- A PIECE OF MISCHIEF FREQUENTLY
PRACTISED. GIVE HER A TEACUP FULL OF SALT ONCE A
WEEK. FEED HER ONCE A DAY WITH THE WASTE FROM THE
KITCHEN, ADDING TO IT ABOUT A PINT OF
INDIAN MEAL. GIVE HER THE SKIMMED MILK NOT
WANTED IN THE FAMILY. IF SHE DOES NOT READILY
DRINK IT, TEACH HER BY KEEPING HER A FEW DAYS
WITHOUT AN AMPLE SUPPLY OF WATER. TAKE CARE THAT
NOTHING IS GIVEN HER WHICH WILL INJURE THE TASTE
OF THE MILK, SUCH AS TURNIPS AND PARSNIPS. CARROTS
ARE A FINE VEGETABLE FOR COWS. HAVE HER MILKED BY
A PERSON WHO UNDERSTANDS THE PROCESS, OR SHE WILL
NOT GIVE IT FREELY, AND WILL SOON BECOME DRY. BUT
THE MOST ABUNDANT SUPPLY OF THE RICHEST MILK WILL
AVAIL LITTLE, UNLESS ALL THE ARTICLES USED IN THE
CARE OF IT ARE KEPT IN THE MOST PERFECT ORDER.
THEY SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR ANY OTHER PURPOSE.
KEEP A CLOTH EXPRESSLY FOR WASHING THEM ONLY, AND
NEVER WASH THEM IN THE SAME WATER WITH OTHER
DISHES. AFTER WASHING, EVERY ARTICLE, AND THE
CLOTH WITH WHICH THEY ARE WASHED, MUST BE SCALDED.
WASH OFF THOROUGHLY ALL THE MILK FROM THE PANS,
PAIL, STRAINER, CHURN, DASHER, SKIMMER, SPOONS,
ETC., BEFORE SCALDING THEM. IF MILK REMAINS IN
THEM WHEN SCALDED, THE BUTTER WILL BE INJURED, AS
MAY READILY BE SUPPOSED, FROM THE FACT THAT A
CLOTH STRAINER, IF SCALDED A FEW TIMES WITH MILK
IN IT, BECOMES YELLOW, AND AS STIFF AS IF IT WERE
STARCHED.
TO SCALD THEM THE WATER MUST
ACTUALLY BOIL. THE ONLY THOROUGH METHOD IS TO HAVE
A KETTLE OF A SIZE TO ADMIT THE PAIL AND PANS, AND
PLUNGE ALL THE ARTICLES INTO IT; AS, IF THE WATER
IS ONLY POURED ON, THE EDGES OF THE PAN AND THE
EARS OF THE PAIL WILL NOT ALWAYS BE WELL
SCALDED.
IF A CLOTH STRAINER IS USED, IT
SHOULD BE OF THIN, COARSE LINEN. A BASIN HAVING A
FINE WIRE STRAINER IS USED BY MANY PERSONS. TIN
PAILS AND PANS ARE BETTER THAN WOOD AND EARTHEN;
BECAUSE TIN IS MORE EASILY KEPT SWEET THAN WOOD,
AND THE GLAZING UPON BROWN EARTHEN PANS IS
SOMETIMES DECOMPOSED BY SOUR MILK. (About two
years since four men, while making hay in a warm
day, drank some butter-milk which had been kept in
a jar of potter's ware, and every one died
immediately.) LARGE WOODEN CHURNS, WORKED BY DOGS
TRAINED TO DO THE BUSINESS, ARE USED IN LARGE
DAIRIES; BUT THOSE WHO KEEP BUT ONE OR TWO COWS,
WILL FIND A STONE-WARE CHURN BEST. NO OTHER IS SO
EASILY KEPT SWEET. FOR KEEPING THE CREAM, NEVER
USE TIN, BUT ALWAYS STONE, CREAM-COLORED OR
FIRE-PROOF WARE. FOR WORKING BUTTER, KEEP A WOODEN
BOWL AND LADLE. THE LAST ARTICLE IS SELDOM FOUND
IN NEW ENGLAND, BUT ALWAYS IN THE STATE OF NEW
YORK. EVERY BUTTER-MAKER SHOULD HAVE IT, AS THE
WARMTH OF THE HAND DETRACTS FROM THE SWEETNESS OF
THE BUTTER.
HAVE THE MILK CLOSET ON THE
COOLEST SIDE OF THE HOUSE, OR IN THE DRYEST AND
COOLEST PART OF THE CELLAR, AND WITH A WINDOW IN
IT, COVERED WITH WIRE-NET, OR SLATS. GOOD BUTTER
CANNOT BE MADE WITHOUT A FREE CIRCULATION OF FRESH
AIR. ALLOW NO DROPS OF CREAM OR MILK TO REMAIN A
DAY ON THE SHELVES. EVERY INCH OF SUCH A CLOSET
MUST BE KEPT PERFECTLY CLEAN.
STRAIN THE
MILK AS SOON AS IT IS BROUGHT IN, SET IT
IMMEDIATELY IN ITS PLACE. TO REMOVE MILK AFTER THE
CREAM HAS BEGUN TO RISE, PREVENTS ITS RISING
FREELY. FOR THE SAME REASON NO ONE SHOULD BE
SUFFERED TO TAKE OUT THE SMALLEST QUANTITY FROM A
PAN SET FOR RAISING CREAM; THEREFORE, ALL THAT IS
WANTED FOR THE DAYS' USE, MUST BE SET APART FROM
THE OTHER PANS. THOSE WHO HAVE ICE THROUGH THE
SUMMER, HAVE A VALUABLE AID IN MAKING GOOD BUTTER.
A PIECE AS LARGE AS A PEACH, SHOULD BE PUT INTO A
PAN CONTAINING THREE QUARTS OF MILK, AS SOON AS IT
IS PLACED IN THE CLOSET. THE MILK WILL NOT SOUR AS
SOON, AND OF COURSE WILL AFFORD MORE CREAM. SKIM
THE CREAM AS SOON AS THE MILK HAS BECOME
LOPPORD (The WebMaster could not find this
word in The American Heritage Dictionary) , WHICH
WILL, IN HOT WEATHER, BE IN ABOUT THIRTY HOURS. TO
DO THIS, FIRST PASS THE FORE-FINGER ROUND THE EDGE
OF THE PAN; (THIS IS BETTER THAN TO USE THE
SKIMMER, BECAUSE THERE IS A HARD, WIRY EDGE OF
CREAM ADHERING TO THE PAN, WHICH IF TAKEN OFF WILL
INJURE THE BUTTER;) THEN TAKE OFF THE CREAM, CLEAR
AS POSSIBLE FROM THE MILK.
IN VERY HOT
WEATHER, ESPECIALY IN AUGUST, WHICH IS THE LEAST
FAVORABLE MONTH FOR MAKING BUTTER, A HEAPING
SPOONFUL OF SALT SHOULD BE PUT INTO A PAIL FULL OF
MILK, AFTER THE PORTION FOR THE ORDINARY FAMILY
USES IS TAKEN OUT; AND AT ALL SEASONS, FINE SALT
SHOULD BE PUT INTO THE CREAM FROM DAY TO DAY, AS
IT IS GATHERED. THE EFFECT OF THIS IS EXCELLENT IN
KEEPING IT SWEET AND GIVING A RICH FLAVOR TO THE
BUTTER.
THE FINEST BUTTER IS MADE WHERE THE
NUMBER OF COWS RENDERS IT NECESSARY TO CHURN EVERY
DAY. THE CUSTOM OF CHURNING ONCE A WEEK IS NOT TO
BE TOLERATED. CREAM THAT IS KEPT SEVEN DAYS,
UNLESS IT BE IN THE COLDEST WEATHER, CANNOT BE
MADE INTO GOOD BUTTER. IF YOU KEEP BUT ONE COW,
CHURN TWICE A WEEK; AND IN DOG-DAYS, THREE TIMES.
DO IT IN THE COOL OF THE MORNING. IF THE WEATHER
IS WARM, SET THE CHURN INTO A TUB OF COLD WATER;
ADD ICE IF YOU HAVE IT, AND PUT A PIECE ALSO INTO
THE CHURN. AIR IS NECESSARY TO MAKE BUTTER
COME; THEREFORE, IF THE CREAM FLIES OUT OF
THE OPENING AROUND THE DASHER, DO NOT PUT ANYTHING
ROUND TO PREVENT IT. WHEN THE BUTTER HAS COME,
CONTINUE THE STROKES OF THE DASHER A FEW MINUTES
TO SEPARATE ALL THE LITTLE PARTICLES FROM THE
BUTTER-MILK. THIS DONE, TAKE IT OUT INTO THE
WOODEN BOWL WITH A LADLE OR SKIMMER. THE BOWL AND
LADLE SHOULD HAVE BOILING WATER POURED ON THEM
WHEN YOU FIRST BEGIN TO CHURN. AFTER A FEW MINUTES
IT SHOULD BE POURED OFF, COLD WATER SHOULD BE
POURED ON THEM, AND THEY SHOULD STAND TILL YOU ARE
READY TO USE THEM. THIS IS TO PREVENT THE BUTTER
FROM STICKING TO THEM.
WORK THE BUTTER WITH
THE LADLE, UNTIL THE BUTTER-MILK CEASES TO COME
OUT; THEN SPRINKLE IT WITH CLEAN SIFTED SALT, AS
THAT WHICH WAS PUT INTO THE CREAM WILL NOT BE
ENOUGH; WORK IT IN WELL, AND TASTE IT TO SEE IF
MORE SHOULD BE ADDED. OBSERVATION AND EXPERIENCE
MUST TEACH YOU HOW MUCH TO USE. MOULD THE BUTTER,
WITH THE LADLE, INTO BALLS OR LUMPS OF ANY FORM
YOU PREFER; PUT IT INTO A COVERED JAR OR TUREEN
AND SET IT IN THE ICE-HOUSE OR
CELLAR.
BUTTER IS SWEETEST TO BE WORKED BUT
ONCE, AND IF ALL WHICH YOU MAKE IS USED FROM WEEK
TO WEEK, IT IS SUFFICIENT, PROVIDED IT COMES HARD;
IF IT IS SOFT AT FIRST, IT MUST BE WORKED AGAIN
THE NEXT MORNING. THAT WHICH IS TO BE LAID DOWN
FOR FUTURE USE, OR TO BE KEPT TWO OR THREE WEEKS,
MUST BE WORKED AGAIN AFTER A DAY OR TWO, AND EVERY
PARITCLE OF BUTTER-MILK GOT OUT. NEVER WORK BUTTER
A THIRD TIME.
FROM OCTOBER TO JUNE, THE
BEST METHOD OF RAISING CREAM IS TO SET THE PANS
FOR TWELVE HOURS IN THE MILK CLOSET, AND THEN FOR
FIVE HOURS ON A STOVE, OR A FURNACE HAVING EMBERS
IN IT, WHERE THE MILK WILL BECOME HOT, BUT NOT
SCALD; THEN RETURN IT TO THE CLOSET, AND AFTER
IT IS COLD, TAKE OFF THE CREAM, DRAINING IT VERY
CLEAR FROM THE MILK. MUCH MORE CREAM WILL BE
OBTAINED IN THIS THAN IN THE ORDINARY METHOD; AND
AT LEAST A QUARTER MORE BUTTER WILL BE SECURED
FROM THE SAME QUANTITY OF MILK. IT ALSO COMES VERY
QUICK -- TEN MINUTES' CHURNING BEING OFTEN
SUFFICIENT. THIS IS THE METHOD PRACTISED IN
DEVONSHIRE, ENGLAND; AND THE CLOTTED CREAM,
AS IT IS CALLED THERE, IS CARRIED FROM THERE UP TO
THE LONDON MARKET; FOR IT IS NOT ONLY GOOD FOR
BUTTER, BUT OF A SUPERIOR QUALITY FOR COFFEE AND
OTHER USES. CARE MUST BE TAKEN THAT IS IS NOT MADE
TOO HOT. IF IT BECOMES SO HOT AS ALMOST TO SCALD,
THE CREAM WILL HAVE LITTLE SKINNY FLAKES IN IT,
WHICH WILL BE VISIBLE IN THE BUTTER.
A
LADY, KNOWN TO THE WRITER, AND WHO PRACTISED THESE
METHODS, MADE FOR SEVERAL SUCCESSIVE SUMMERS, A
GREAT QUANTITY OF BUTTER FROM ONE COW. SHE WAS,
HOWEVER, A RARE ANIMAL. DURING THE MONTHS OF JUNE
AND JULY, SHE AFFORED FROM TWELVE TO FIFTEEN
POUNDS OF BUTTER A WEEK, BESIDES CREAM FOR THE
TABLE, AND MILK NOT SKIMMED, FOR LITTLE
CHILDREN, FOR PUDDINGS, AND FOR WETTING ALL THE
BREAD EATEN IN THE FAMILY, -- SEVEN OR EIGHT IN
NUMBER.
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AN EXCELLENT BRINE FOR KEEPING BUTTER
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TO TWO QUARTS OF
WATER, PUT ONE OF CLEAN FINE SALT, A POUND OF LOAF
OR CRUSHED SUGAR, AND A TEASPOON OF SALTPETRE.
WHEN IT HAS STOOD AN HOUR, IN ORDER THAT THE SALT
AND SUGAR MAY DISSOLVE, STRAIN IT THROUGH A
FLANNEL BAG, AND POUR IT OVER THE BUTTER. LESS
SALT MAY BE ENOUGH. THE OBJECT IS, TO HAVE AS MUCH
AS THE WATER WILL TAKE
UP. |
TO KEEP BUTTER SWEET A
YEAR
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TAKE CARE THAT THE
BUTTER IS MADE IN THE BEST MANNER, AND THE
BUTTER-MILK ENTIRELY WORKED OUT OF IT. LAY IT IN A
WHITE-OAK FIRKIN ( A small wooden barrel or
keg). MAKE A STRONG BRINE OF SALT AND WATER,
AND PUT IT INTO ANOTHER AND LARGER FIRKIN, AND SET
THE ONE CONTAINING THE BUTTER INTO THE ONE IN
WHICH THE BRINE IS. LET THE BRINE COME UP VERY
NEAR TO THE TOP OF THE BUTTER FIRKIN. LAY ON THE
TOP OF THE BUTTER A WHITE BAG WITH FINE SALT IN
IT, COVER IT CLOSE, AND THEN PUT ON THE COVER OF
THE OUTSIDE FIRKIN.
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The family rolling pin
is made to do service as a butter-worker, and an
inclined oval table was made of hard wood
(probably oak), stiffened with two cleats screwed
to the bottom, into which the legs fit. a somewhat
flexible strip was then tacked upon each side,
half an inch higher thatn the table, so as to
guide the buttermilk, etc., to the lower end,
where an opening was left for the
drip.
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